Gift set: Cépage Pinot Noir

Another surprise for those discovering the wine history of the Centre-Loire region: Pinot Noir is not a newcomer looking to capitalize on the popularity of Sauvignon. It is actually the opposite. Monks in the vicinity of Sancerre were cultivating it as early as the 11th–12th centuries, and for centuries, it was their red wines that built the local reputation—so much so that in the 19th century, Balzac himself paid homage to the "generous wines" of Sancerre.

Then came phylloxera at the end of the 19th century, which devastated the vineyards. Against all odds, it was Sauvignon Blanc that bounced back fastest during replanting, as it was easier to graft onto American rootstocks, relegating Pinot Noir to the background. The shift was so stark that in 1936, when Sancerre was granted its AOC, it applied only to white wines. It would take until 1959 for the Pinot Noir reds and rosés to finally be officially reinstated into the appellation.

For a long time, Sancerre Pinot Noir suffered from a reputation as a light, unpretentious wine: fearing late-season rain and rot, producers would systematically harvest it before the Sauvignon, often before it was fully ripe. The result: pale, simple reds, better suited for an aperitif than for contemplation.

For the past twenty years or so, the situation has changed. Ambitious winemakers now harvest Pinot Noir after the Sauvignon rather than before, and they are expressing it with a new seriousness. On flint soils, it produces powerful, structured wines with a tense minerality reminiscent of certain Burgundies; on limestone "caillottes," it gains freshness and silkiness. The movement extends beyond Sancerre: in Menetou-Salon, Reuilly, or the tiny Coteaux du Giennois vineyard, Loire Pinot Noir is gradually refining its style, balancing crisp fruit with Loire-style freshness—never imitating Burgundy, but rather asserting its own distinct identity.

A grape variety that reigned even before Sauvignon existed in the Loire, eclipsed for a century, and which is now, quietly but surely, reclaiming its former glory.

Here are six bottles from our selection to give Loire Pinot Noir the honors it deserves: